Magazines: GQ - Language and Representation

Our first Magazine Close-Study Product is men's lifestyle magazine GQ.

We need to study this across all four key concepts but will begin with a focus on language and representations.

Notes from the lesson

GQ was launched in the UK in 1988 as a monthly men’s lifestyle magazine.

The magazine evolved from two American magazines: Apparel Arts was launched in New York in 1931 and later evolved into Gentleman’s Quarterly – which was then shortened to GQ.

It is published by international media giant Condé Nast.

GQ: cultural significance

GQ represents a notable social and cultural shift in expectations of contemporary masculinity (compared for example with the Score hair cream advert). 

For example, the influence of fashion, consumerism, diversity, body image and changes in what society deems acceptable and unacceptable when it comes to masculinity.

Will Welch – new editorial direction

GQ’s global editorial director Will Welch introduced significant changes to the magazine’s approach. He placed less emphasis on print and instead focused on web, social media and video content. 

Welch also championed the concept of ‘New Masculinity’ and explored of how traditional notions of masculinity are being challenged and overturned. GQ has since featured a number of celebrities, including Brad Pitt, Pharrell Williams, and Robert Pattinson, in cover shoots that defy gender stereotypes. He also said that the magazine has been moving from giving general style advice to offering examples of self-expression.

Representations

GQ's new editorial direction gives us plenty to think about regarding representations and masculinity. Revise the theories we have covered:

David Gauntlett on masculinity

“The mass media is a force for change… The traditional view of a woman as a housewife or low-status worker has been kick-boxed out of the picture by the feisty, successful 'girl power' icons. Meanwhile the masculine ideals of absolute toughness, stubborn self-reliance and emotional silence have been shaken by a new emphasis on men's emotions, need for advice, and the problems of masculinity.”

“Views of gender and sexuality, masculinity and femininity, identity and selfhood, are all in slow but steady processes of change and transformation.”

Raewyn Connell: hegemonic masculinity

Hegemonic masculinity is a concept of proposed practices that promote the dominant social position of men, and the subordinate social position of women. According to Connell, hegemonic masculinity is:

“The configuration of gender practice which embodies the currently accepted answer to the problem of the legitimacy of patriarchy, which guarantees (or is taken to guarantee) the dominant position of men and the subordination of women.”

Does GQ magazine contribute to maintaining the dominant position of men in society?

bell hooks: “normalised traumatisation”

Feminist writer bell hooks has highlighted the corrosive, damaging effect of toxic masculinity on both men and women.

She builds on Judith Butler’s work, agreeing that gender roles are constructed, not ‘natural’. In fact, she suggests that patriarchy (a male dominated society) indoctrinates people from an early age so “gender becomes a set of connotations that have become naturalised”.

This then results in “normalised traumatisation” – meaning the damage caused by these representations is simply accepted as part of society.

Van Zoonen: “sex role stereotypes”

Liesbet van Zoonen suggests that the media reinforces sex role stereotypes, helping to construct gender roles. She gives examples of reinforcing sex-appropriate behaviours and the use of airbrushing to change appearances.

She accepts that the media sexualises both men’s and women’s bodies but highlights key differences. The representation of women’s sexuality is generally submissive and disempowering. In contrast, representations of male sexuality are based on strength and power. 

Some of GQ's video content is clearly inspired by the 'new masculinity' that Will Welch has pushed such as this Netflix Heartstopper feature. Does this mean that GQ challenges the gender theories we have learned?

 

GQ - Language & Representation blog tasks

Create a blogpost called 'GQ: Language and Representation' and complete the following tasks:

Language: Media factsheet

Complete the following tasks using Media Factsheet 252 - The Codes and Conventions of Print Magazines available in our Media Factsheet archive here. Answer the following questions:

1) What are the different magazine genres highlighted on page 2 and how do they link to our magazine CSPs?

2) Look at the section on GQ on page 2. How do they suggest that GQ targets its audience?

3) What does the factsheet say about GQ cover stars?

4) Pick out five of the key conventions of magazine front covers and explain what they communicate to an audience.

5) What is a magazine’s ‘house style’? How would you describe GQ’s house style? 

Extension tasks: Look at the final pages of the magazine factsheet that focus on creating magazine pages for coursework. What can you take from this to help future coursework projects? 

Language: CSP analysis

1) Write a summary of our annotations on the media language choices on the cover of GQ - e.g. colour scheme, typography, language, photographic codes etc. 

2) Identify three specific aspects/conventions/important points (e.g. cover lines, colour scheme, use of text, image etc.) from each page/feature of the CSP that you could refer to in a future exam. Explain why that particular aspect of the CSP is important - think about connotations, representations, audience pleasures, reception theory etc.

Front cover: Robert Pattinson image - Art & Fashion issue

Inside pages: Jonathan Bailey feature and fashion shoot

 

3) Apply narrative theories to GQ - Todorov's equilibrium, Propp's character types, Barthes' action or enigma codes, Levi-Strauss's binary opposition. How can we use narrative to understand the way the cover and features have been constructed?

4) Analyse the cover and inside pages of GQ. Does this offer an example of Steve Neale's genre theory concerning 'repetition and difference'?

 

Representations: applying theory

We have already covered many relevant theories in our work on Advertising and Marketing (for example, David Gauntlett's writing on Media, Gender and Identity). We now need to apply these theories and ideas to GQ and specifically the CSP pages allocated by AQA.

1) How can Gauntlett's ideas on masculinity, gender and identity be applied to the GQ CSP pages we have analysed?

2) How could van Zoonen's work on feminist and gender theory be applied to GQ? Does the magazine challenge or reinforce these ideas?

3) Does bell hooks's work on 'corrosive masculinity' apply to GQ? 

4) How does the Jonathan Bailey feature represent masculinity and sexuality? 


Representations: wider reading - GQ and the new masculinity

Read this CNN feature on how GQ is redefining masculinity and answer the following questions:

1) Which GQ issue is discussed at the start of the article and what was notable about it? 

2) How did Will Welch view GQ when he took over as Editor-in-Chief and what did he want to offer readers? 

3) How has publisher Conde Nast responded to changes in the magazine industry and how did this impact GQ?

4) What did the GQ New Masculinity edition feature? 

5) What did journalist Liz Plank say about toxic masculinity?

6) How did Welch respond to suggestions GQ was responsible for toxic masculinity?

Finally, read this short GQ feature on masculinity and answer the following questions:

1) What does the article suggest masculinity involved at the start of the 20th century?

2) What social change occurred from the 1930s?

3) What is suggested about masculinity today?

4) Why does it suggest these changes are important? 

A/A* extension tasks

Read more of GQ's New Masculinity issue - you may need to register (for free) with the GQ website to access this. How is masculinity and identity discussed? Can you link it to any of our theorists? 

From the same issue, this is Will Welch's Editor's letter where he discusses the new direction for the magazine.

There is also a New York Times interview with Will Welch which covers GQ's new approach to masculinity. The New York Times has a paywall but you can usually read the first article you click on for free. 

Due date on Google Classroom